Day 13

More Moors

A short day today (9.5 mi), most of it level on a good track but a bit boring.

After getting a lift from our hotel to where we left off yesterday we had a 700’ climb up to Urra Moor and Round Hill, the highest spot on the Yorkshire Moors.

Good views on the climb back to yesterday’s hasty descent from Hasty Bank and also back along the Track to the top of the Moor.

The heather is starting to bloom giving a light purple sheen to the otherwise featureless moor.

Many marker stones were evident on the side of the trail some with old style graffiti.

After cresting the summit we descended to Bloworth Crossing in the company of Ian a volunteer trail Ranger – no guesses what he and I spoke about; Don of course got his life story other than trail maintenance.

Bloworth is where the Cleveland Trail leaves the C2C (until we rejoin when we reach the coast). From here on we followed the broad gravel trail of the now disused railway that used to run between the iron quarries at Rosedale to Teeside – the last trains ran in 1929 but the trail has been maintained (thanks Ian). It is flat – too flat- and although there are some views down into the Farndale valley and grouse shooting butts for Don to examine, the walking does get a bit monotonous. We stopped for a leisurely lunch

And then it was time for a quick pace so I upped mine to over 3 mph and left the other two in the dust. At last the Lion Inn came into view – our bed for the night – and I was fully ensconced in the beer garden with Simon (last seen at Orton) with a cider by the time Don and Colin arrived.

Another great weather day, a bit windy on the moors but not too hot and no rain again!!

Day 12

The Cleveland Hills

And North Yorkshire Moors.

I have always liked this section of the trail, sure there are some steepish ups and downs (5 of them) but the walking is easy on a good path and the views fantastic, from the moors ahead and to the south and the farmland set out below to the north, right to the industrial area of Tyneside with glimpses, at last, of the North Sea, our eventual goal.

As we were leaving we saw the Californian couple. She had done her knee in a few days ago and had missed 2 legs but was rejoining again – not an easy leg for a gammy knee.

Then a climb up through Arncliffe Woods with view back over the Mowbray Plain and the last two day’s route.

Once on top we met up with Steven again but he soon left us in the dust.

Down Scarth Moor, losing all the height we had gained, the first of five times this would happen today, then a gentle climb through woods before another steep climb up to Round Hill and Carlton Moor

Over the whole route today we were walking concurrent with the Cleveland Way and the Lyke Wake Walk

Down a steep descent and a leisurely break for lunch at the renowned Lord Stones Café, a favourite with C2Cers.

A steep climb up to Cringle Moor followed

Near the top we stopped to look at the viewpoint and memorial to Alec Falconer who was one of the pioneers of the Cleveland Way

Time for a rest for two old farts

Another steep descent and climb to Kirkby Bank, down again and then up to the Wainstones

With great views north to Great Broughton, our bed for the night and also east to tomorrows initial climb.

I have not said much about the weather in case I angered the rain dogs (and cats?) but today was another gorgeous one, some cloud, some sun, not too hot and no rain. In 12 days of walking we have needed rain gear for one hour in the misty drizzle going around Ennerdale Lake on Day 2. Forecast for tomorrow is also OK with possible rain for the last two days but they are off the hills so few views will be spoilt.

Day 11

And then we were 3 (again)

16.5 miles across the Mowbray Plain at an overall average of 2.5 mph and a moving average close to 3 mph.

Unless you like walking through fields

and fields of barley on an otherwise featureless plain then today would not be a high spot on your trip. Except for (what we thought) the impressive hike stats it was not a high spot for us.

Colin, back in good health, joined us today and we were ready to get our taxi back to last night’s finish at 8.30 a.m.

Soon after the start we paid a visit to the grave of Henry Jenkins I at Bolton on Swale churchyard, who reputedly lived to 169, the monument erected in 1743 apparently ran out of contributioⁿs.

Then it was 8 miles of farmland byways with the only highlight the possibility of 3 lots of bull in one field.

Danby Wiske was our halfway point and we had intended to have a shandy at the White Swan but it had been taken over by a wedding party. Still the sign showing only 60 miles to go was encouraging.

A couple of days ago we had a plethora of stile styles, today we had a hedge passage from one field to the next which was an adventure all on its own.

I was getting a bit tired and thought I might hail the next train but the others dissuaded me

And at 3.30 we made a mad dash over the busy A19 and arrived at Ingleby tired but looking forward to tomorrow’s day in the Cleveland Hills

Day 10

Reeth to Richmond and beyond

Well we intended to knock off a few miles today and we succeeded; 17.5 miles with over 1,000’ of total climb and about 1,500’ of descent.

Colin decided to walk but left later and at a slower pace; when he got to Richmond (10.5mi) he still felt OK so did another 2 miles for the hell of it. We expect he will join us for tomorrows 16mi (flat) slog.

Started off from Reeth at 8.30 under a cloudless sky and soon reached Marrick Priory

.

Where we spent a delightful 5 minutes watching a shepherd and his dog work the sheep.

Climbed up the “nun’s steps” and realized that the reason they wear long habits is to protect themselves from stinging nettles.

On reaching the top we had our first view of the Mowbray Plain (tomorrows walk) and the Cleveland Hills (the day after).

Don stopped around here to round up some cows (if you don’t like cows don’t do the C2C)

And then it was across the fields to Marske, a walk through this picturesque village and down across more fields to a stream where Cathy and I had had lunch 8 years ago.

A steep climb up to a cross trail

And then a fairly level walk past the 4 Applegarth farms

And a long descent into Richmond where I got a bit excited and tried to kick the sign over

We stopped to check into our hotel and but the makings for lunch (pork pie and Scotch egg) and then through the square

And onwards to the converted station where I washed lunch down with an ice cream. We then took an alternative to the accepted trail by using the old railway line for a mile

Before joining C2C at the sewerage works!

 Maybe it was the smell but we went a bit wrong here and I had to ask a military guy (from Catterick Barracks) who was out with his Alsatian (smile at the doggie Geof) who put us right. In all three of my C2Cs I have made a small error here, even with GPS and two books and one map. Actually we made another mistake later on as we approached the A1 where we circumnavigated a large field by mistake.

We finally got to Bolton on Swale – the last we will see of this beautiful river – found a nearby service station, rang a taxi, and was back at our pub in Richmond by 5 p.m., Colin got in about an hour later.

Day 9

Miles of Stile Styles

There are two alternative routes from Keld to Reeth, the high level route across the moors through old abandoned mines or the low level route along the River Swale. No guesses as to which route we took. The disadvantage of the low route is we had to climb over/through about 30+ stiles.

Colin was still not feeling 100% so Don and I walked most of the way with the Aussies, Don discussing all the worlds problems the whole way and me out front navigating (i.e. following the river).

First we crossed the UK N-S long distance path, the Pennine Way, which brought back some memories of when Colin and I did it about 40 years ago.

The we followed the valley east, mainly over farm land.

We saw many rabbits, hares and also otters in the river and the wild flowers are in full bloom

We stopped for morning tea/coffee with the obligatory scone with strawberry jam and clotted cream.

 The path continued alongside the river, sometimes on flood protection levees

At one point Don thought the path crossed the river on a bridge but soon turned back when he saw the rest of us going straight on

And so we arrived at Reeth, another 12+ miles but mainly an uneventful day.  Tomorrow we start the first day of a two day 34 mile stint, we hope to do about 16 miles in the first day.