Day 11

And then we were 3 (again)

16.5 miles across the Mowbray Plain at an overall average of 2.5 mph and a moving average close to 3 mph.

Unless you like walking through fields

and fields of barley on an otherwise featureless plain then today would not be a high spot on your trip. Except for (what we thought) the impressive hike stats it was not a high spot for us.

Colin, back in good health, joined us today and we were ready to get our taxi back to last night’s finish at 8.30 a.m.

Soon after the start we paid a visit to the grave of Henry Jenkins I at Bolton on Swale churchyard, who reputedly lived to 169, the monument erected in 1743 apparently ran out of contributioⁿs.

Then it was 8 miles of farmland byways with the only highlight the possibility of 3 lots of bull in one field.

Danby Wiske was our halfway point and we had intended to have a shandy at the White Swan but it had been taken over by a wedding party. Still the sign showing only 60 miles to go was encouraging.

A couple of days ago we had a plethora of stile styles, today we had a hedge passage from one field to the next which was an adventure all on its own.

I was getting a bit tired and thought I might hail the next train but the others dissuaded me

And at 3.30 we made a mad dash over the busy A19 and arrived at Ingleby tired but looking forward to tomorrow’s day in the Cleveland Hills

Day 10

Reeth to Richmond and beyond

Well we intended to knock off a few miles today and we succeeded; 17.5 miles with over 1,000’ of total climb and about 1,500’ of descent.

Colin decided to walk but left later and at a slower pace; when he got to Richmond (10.5mi) he still felt OK so did another 2 miles for the hell of it. We expect he will join us for tomorrows 16mi (flat) slog.

Started off from Reeth at 8.30 under a cloudless sky and soon reached Marrick Priory

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Where we spent a delightful 5 minutes watching a shepherd and his dog work the sheep.

Climbed up the “nun’s steps” and realized that the reason they wear long habits is to protect themselves from stinging nettles.

On reaching the top we had our first view of the Mowbray Plain (tomorrows walk) and the Cleveland Hills (the day after).

Don stopped around here to round up some cows (if you don’t like cows don’t do the C2C)

And then it was across the fields to Marske, a walk through this picturesque village and down across more fields to a stream where Cathy and I had had lunch 8 years ago.

A steep climb up to a cross trail

And then a fairly level walk past the 4 Applegarth farms

And a long descent into Richmond where I got a bit excited and tried to kick the sign over

We stopped to check into our hotel and but the makings for lunch (pork pie and Scotch egg) and then through the square

And onwards to the converted station where I washed lunch down with an ice cream. We then took an alternative to the accepted trail by using the old railway line for a mile

Before joining C2C at the sewerage works!

 Maybe it was the smell but we went a bit wrong here and I had to ask a military guy (from Catterick Barracks) who was out with his Alsatian (smile at the doggie Geof) who put us right. In all three of my C2Cs I have made a small error here, even with GPS and two books and one map. Actually we made another mistake later on as we approached the A1 where we circumnavigated a large field by mistake.

We finally got to Bolton on Swale – the last we will see of this beautiful river – found a nearby service station, rang a taxi, and was back at our pub in Richmond by 5 p.m., Colin got in about an hour later.

Day 9

Miles of Stile Styles

There are two alternative routes from Keld to Reeth, the high level route across the moors through old abandoned mines or the low level route along the River Swale. No guesses as to which route we took. The disadvantage of the low route is we had to climb over/through about 30+ stiles.

Colin was still not feeling 100% so Don and I walked most of the way with the Aussies, Don discussing all the worlds problems the whole way and me out front navigating (i.e. following the river).

First we crossed the UK N-S long distance path, the Pennine Way, which brought back some memories of when Colin and I did it about 40 years ago.

The we followed the valley east, mainly over farm land.

We saw many rabbits, hares and also otters in the river and the wild flowers are in full bloom

We stopped for morning tea/coffee with the obligatory scone with strawberry jam and clotted cream.

 The path continued alongside the river, sometimes on flood protection levees

At one point Don thought the path crossed the river on a bridge but soon turned back when he saw the rest of us going straight on

And so we arrived at Reeth, another 12+ miles but mainly an uneventful day.  Tomorrow we start the first day of a two day 34 mile stint, we hope to do about 16 miles in the first day.

Day 8

A not so quick trip to the bog

Today we reached 1/2 way - hooray - both in distance and time. We crossed the Pennines by climbing 'Nine Standards'. The top is the watershed of the west flowing Eden and the east flowing Swale; unfortunately most of the water is still in the shed and some is in our boots.


We left early (Colin took another rest day but hopes to join us tomorrow) and immeadiately started to climb, initially on road and then on trail with good views over the quarry back to Kirkby Stephen.

Nine Standards are 9 big cairns/columns on the summit - no-one knows why they are there but we could see them from far away and they very slowly got closer and closer as we climbed. Don found a seat halfway up and insisted on a rest.

We met up again with Australians Geof and Liz and together we finally reached the top

Then we had to descend through deep and oozy peat bogs. This made navigation a bit difficult as we had to make big detours around them. Even the two Geofs with 4 GPSs between them were not sure occasionaly.

Finally we got down to a distinct path and were looking forward to a hot tea/coffee at Ravenseat Farm

Unfortunately it was closed so we had to be content with bread and water at one of their picnic tables.

All that remained was the last 4 flatish miles - still muddy - into Keld. We passed a man and his dog going up and when I explained to the dog how steep it was he decided he needed the stick more than his slave.

Tomorrow is almost a rest day, an easy 10.5 miles along the banks of the Swale.

Day 7

A stroll across the moors or Farm Life 101

Left Scar Side Farm at 8.45 - the most comfortable and friendly B&B so far

A relatively easy 12 miler today over undulating farm land and moors with only 15 stiles to block our way. Colin took today off again to go see the quack in Kirkby Stevens who prescribed the expected Doxicyclin. he will probably join us tomorrow on the assault of 9 Standards Rigg.
Meanwhile Don and I chatted with cows

Watched nature in the raw

Blinked at the bull

And walked over the moors towards the Pennines.

Lunch was at a delightful spot - Smardale Bridge

which was followed by the only significant climb of the day and then a long descent into Kirkby Stephens. Tomorrow will not be so easy, as well as the climb of 9 Standards Rigg we have to contend with the bogs on top.

Today we say farewell to Adri and her daughter Ilse who hope to come back next year and do the other half.

Oh, I nearly forgot - we also passed a tarpaulin with tyres on, which Don seemed to think was important - maybe all this walking is starting to addle the brain

Day 6

And then there were 2.


Well for today anwway. Colin felt so lousy this morning he decided to take a lift in the Sherpa van. If he feels no better tomorrow he will van it to Kirkby Stephens and see a quack.
Don and I meanwhile had an easy short day, 8 miles across the moors.
First we had a last look at yesterdays climb (Kidsty Pike is the little Pimple - it seem so long and far ago already).

Then we had to cross the M6

And then an easy hike across the moors where we crossed an old Roman road

Held up a rock

And had lunch

Staying tonight in a very comfortable converted farm house (Scar Side) with a great view of the moors. Greeted on arrival with tea and cake. Colin had already arrived and taken the single room - we will visit him later in our hazmat suits to see how he is.